The wine world is very small. Once you meet someone, you have to be careful. You will meet them again. They might be selling to you today, but tomorrow you will be schlepping wine to them. Now I’m not going to say I’ve always been an angel, I sell wine for goodness sake. I do try to remember that my actions can come back and bite me where I don’t taste wine. Wednesday, August 26th Sara Marston with Juice Wine Purveyors planned on stopping by with another winery representative. The wine is Lioco and I already had plans of bringing in 3 cases of their old Vine Carignan blend. This is why Sara wanted me to meet the owner.
In walks a tall, nicely coiffed man with a backpack instead of a briefcase. Can we say California; all that was missing was a “Hey Dude”. We gave each other the secret California handshake (please, as if) and I realized I had met him before. Licklider, who forgets that last name? Matt Licklider knew me in my former wine life in San Francisco. He represented North Berkeley Imports and I worked for San Francisco Wine Trading Co. Matt, always had great wines, mostly French and the store I worked for sold a lot of Kermit Lynch wines. I can image it was tough for Matt. He was never going to get a large amount of his wines in that store. North Berkeley Imports and Kermit Lynch were big competitors. Both focused on Boutique French producers and both of them had warehouses and sold retail in Berkeley. Matt was great, but I knew it was a bit like banging your head against the wall. Now, don’t get me wrong, Matt sold plenty of wine and is very knowledgeable. He wasn’t sitting around waiting for SFWTC to buy everything from him. Apparently he had bigger dreams, a winery being one of them. LIOCO was founded by Matt Licklider and Kevin O'Connor (former wine director at Michelin Two-Star Spago-Beverly Hills). For years the two discussed whether California could produce a true "wine of origin”. After gathering opinions on the subject from some of the world's great wine producers, they arrived at one conclusion: California can achieve a wine of origin, provided certain protocols are adhered to--both in the vineyard and in the cellar. Both men searched for vineyard sites with tougher soil, older vines, higher altitude, and extreme temperatures. Each vineyard is cared for in the least intrusive way possible. Some of the sites are farmed organically, but all the wines are made naturally. This means no cultured yeasts, only wild. No added enzyme, malo-latic fermentation happens naturally, un-filtered, un-fined and no wood chips added to these wines.…
The wines have a voice. Distinct and flavorful, living somewhere on the fringe. These are not over extracted, jammy or over manipulated wines. If they were in a blind tasting, you might think they were Alsatian, anywhere but California. The Chardonnays are alive with earthy, mineral aromas and other atypical aromatics. I would even recommend decanting. I loved all of them, but selected a few.
2009 Lioco, Chardonnay, Sonoma County: I have to say, Chardonnay is not my go to white. I like to cook very untraditional meals and enjoy pairing them with the perfect wine. California Chardonnay is not normally a good choice. To much alcohol, oak, malo and tropical notes for me. I will no longer be able to over look this popular grape. The 2009 Lioco Sonoma Chardonnay made me pause. I closed my eyes and took a deep breath and just sighed. I almost got down on one knee to thank Mother Nature for such a gift. Crushed quartz, lemon curd and pear skins swirl around the glass. They kissed me on the check and whispered “surprise” in my ear. As my Sip…passed my lips it gracefully presented a lemon verbena herb, salt, talc and soft smoky earth character that I was not accustomed. This character was appealing, almost seductive. I was enamored. The finish is like an old soul. All knowing and mature with a lively spirit. I would definitely serve this wine at my house. Green papaya salad, crab cakes and fig pizza are great pairings. $20.99-the wine is due in mid September.
I was almost nervous to taste the rest of the line-up. I knew it would be inspiring. Each wine was amazing and distinct. This is the kind of day every wine a store owner longs for. I love being reminded of why I’m open. The final wine in the line up was the red I had already committed. I tasted the 2008 Lioco “Indica” Old Vine Carignan at a warehouse show about 2 weeks ago and I was looking forward to selling it this fall. The fact it was mostly Carignan made me taste it, the back story made me fall in love and the finish told me to commit to it. The vines are old, we are talking grandparents old and for California wine country it’s ancient. The keeper of the vines is Alvin Tollini. His grandfather planted these vines after returning from WWII. It was his way of healing. On his death bed he left the vines to his grandson and made him promise not to rip them out. This is a commitment: Alvin could make much more if he planted Cabernet. Almost four times as much. These vines are cared for out of respect and love. You can taste it. The wine was made for a meal. Cassis, graphite, olive and earth are the aromas that made me feel warm and happy, like a comfort meal after a long day. Cozy on the palate too, black plums, baking spices and violets wrapped around my tongue. This wine will soothe what ails ya. Like a good friend with welcoming arms. I would thank this wine for its kindness with a big dish of mole chicken, pulled pork, or a gourmet cheese and heirloom tomato sandwich. A loaf of La Farm bead would make this wine happy too. $19.50-the wine arrives Sept 2nd.
I want to thank Matt Licklider and Lioco for proving, California can make wine that has true terroir. In today’s wine market, I taste way to many average wines that have no distinct characteristics. Often times they taste homogenized. I search for interesting wines everyday and today I feel satisfied. After all my excitement had faded, paying bills and doing those all important daily tasks will do that, Amie Fields with Vintners Select Wine Company stopped by with a visiting importer, Christophe Chapillon with Christophe Chapillon Selections is visiting from Spain. Sip... was not on their planned route that day, but when Amie realized one of the wineries they where tasting was organic, I got the call. The lucky bottling was Langa by Terra Nova Wines. Bodegas Langa from the Calatayud region of central Spain is the sole family owned cellar in the entire region. The entire family is involved in all aspects of winery management; however Juan Jose Langa is the head winemaker. The bodegas privileged location, protected by the Vicor Mountains, makes it the most outstanding and technologically advanced of all cellars under the Calatayud C.R.D.O. which was only recognized in 1990. (Though it is thought that wine has been produced in this region for at least 500 years). The family's wine philosophy has led them to select new varietals to supplement Calatayud's traditional grapes. They have proved that Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Petit Verdot can deliver superior, unique wines second to none in the Calatayud D.O. And they've achieved this while adhering strictly to organic standards throughout the Langa vineyards. The family believes there is no place for chemical fertilizers, insecticides and weed killers in their winery. What prevails is balance. Using chemical products wipe out the flora, fauna and the microbiology which will come in the natural wine yeasts that will make the wine ferment.
I tasted 3 of their wines, but only selected 2 of them for the store. The 2006 Bodegas Langa, Garnacha is a wonderful value. A beautiful cherry red color that looks bright and smells amazing. Ripe, spring cherries, raspberry and cinnamon tickle your nose. If I could I’d pour this wine on my yogurt in the morning. On the palate it is generous, harmonious and sumptuous, filled with more red fruits and a chewy finish. A great deal at $9.75. The wine arrives, Friday Sept 3rd.
We also selected their 2006 Bodegas Langa Petit Verdot. First of all, it’s almost impossible to find Petit Verdot bottled solo and if you do, it usually cost over $20.00. This bottling is 95% Petit Verdot with 5% Tannat. I’ve been looking for a Petit Verdot for the store, but never thought I’d find one from Spain. The wine is rustic with a slight sophistication. The color is dark purple with intense aromas. Blackberry, violets, earthy spice, green bean and oregano. The wine is bold with more blackberry and blueberry notes followed by spicy wood and molasses tones. This is a big red with round tannins. $12.75. Arrives, Friday Sept 3rd.
Cheers, to a great tasting day!
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