Monday, July 26^th 2010:

Most Monday’s I don’t taste. I usually stay home and chase the girls around the house. We make organic cupcakes, homemade play dough and we do a lot of laundry. This Monday was unique. Allison with Empire Distributing mentioned that her company had recently started selling a small French Importers wines and that some of them were Organic or Biodynamic. I figured it would be worth a taste or two. I dropped the girls off at PB&J’s and headed to Carrboro to meet Thomas Meunier, with Authentique Vin. The tasting was at the Open Eye Café, a Coffee Shop co-owned by Thomas Meunier’s wife Elizabeth. Thomas has only been importing for 6 months, but he has managed to find some lovely and interesting wines from both well-known and obscure areas. I must say, I was not interested in carrying any wines from Empire Distributing at first. I always saw them as one of the larger distributors in town and I really wanted to support the smaller independent distributors in the area. Empire is on alarger scale, but Allison has done a great job in showing me that Empire also has a few small unique importers like Authentique Vin. It has given me a new impression of them. I like that I still get to buy unusual, small brands, even if they are warehoused by a large distributor.

Thomas Meunier, is a tall slender man with a warm smile, a charming French accent, and a sparkle in his eye; especially when he mentions his wife (they are newlyweds), and his wines. It is nice to see passion in people.

The first wine we tasted was a 2008 Domaine de la Louvetrie, “Le Feif du Breil”, Muscadet Sevre et Maine. Muscadet, made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape. It tends to be very mineraly with some salty notes. Typical, but not always interesting. The “Le Feif du Breil” Muscadet was different. I don’t know if it was the warm air or that it was my first taste of the day, but this perfectly chilled white was the most satisfy Sip… I have had in a few days. Yes, there was a lively minerality to the wine, but there were fruity aromas I was not expecting. A contemporary style Muscadet, with aromas of crushed stones, thyme, soft floral and sea salt. This Certified Organic 2008 has plenty of character, acidity, and substance. A lovely, fresh white with great definition. It makes me want to grill up some oysters and fry up some Pomme Frites.

Next we tried two wonderful Burgundies from Domaine Moreau-Naudet. A 2007 Petite Chablis and 2007 Chablis, both 100% Chardonnay and both aged without oak. The Moreau-Naudet family has been farming in Chablis since the 17^th century and it shows. Stephane Moreau is gifted winemaker who believes that greatness only comes from tireless work in the fields and in the cellar. There are no clones here — all Moreau's plants are old-vine Chardonnay; original, beautiful vines that pull minerals and vibrancy straight from the region's noble soils.

He still works in a 15^th-century cave in the middle of the town of Chablis. Most of his contemporaries have left and moved out of the city, but Stephane is happy with his older surroundings. He has still managed to add some current technology, like a thermoregulated steel vat. The cave is also immaculate, and it needs to be, since the winery practices organic farming and uses natural yeasts. Stephane Moreau still hand-harvests all of his vines. 90% of Chablis producers harvest with machines, so this adds to his uniqueness. He is also one of only three Chablis domains to use sorting tables.

The 2007 Domaine Moreau-Naudet Petit Chablis is a perfect introduction to this unique area. These grapes are grown on a stony hillside facing the Chablis AOC. Made from 100% Chardonnay sourced from a six-acre parcel. This un-oaked white is young and vibrant and aged in stainless steal vats for 11 months. Lively and fresh, with notes of gooseberries and pear. The finish picks up more mineral notes, like granite and flint. The finish is long and clean. $22.50

2007 Domaine Moreau-Naudet, Chablis is produced from 20-year old vines that have been farmed organically for 15 years. With gentle flinty and stony minerals, a very tempting Chablis showing notes of citrus and Asian pears. A rich mouth feel with subtle notes of white pepper and soft lemon peel flavors. A gorgeous wine with a long and fine balance. $28.50

I didn’t get to taste the two 1er cru Chablis Stephane Moreau produce, but plan to hold a Domaine Moreau-Naudet Chablis tasting for our customers in the near future, and we can open them then. The 2007 Domaine Moreau-Naudet, 1er cru “Forets” is made from 45-year old vines grown in Kimmeridgian soil. This wine is aged partially in French oak barrel and stainless tanks. The 2007 Domaine Moreau-Naudet Chablis, 1er cru “Vaillons,” is from a small four-acre block locates on a stony hillside. Historically, both of these 1er cru vineyards produce amazing wines, and I’m sure that Stephane Moreau’s will not disappoint.

The last white I tasted was the 2007 Eric Morgat, “L’Enclos” Savennieres. Golden blond in color with fragrant aromas. Wow, this estate is planted with 40 different types of Chenin Blanc. The fact that Eric Morgot uses homeopathic sprays and cover crops, limits yields, hand selects at harvest, utilizes natural yeasts and even ferments in oak only adds to the resulting wine's beauty. $41.99

I went to this tasting looking for a few kinds of wine. Another rose was not one of them, but the 2009 Domaine Grosbois, “Cuisine de ma Mere” Chinon Rose, made me reconsider. A lovely bright pink wine made from Cabernet Franc grapes, it was fresh and just like the name suggests; it needs to be a staple in my kitchen. “Cuisine de ma Mere” translates to “Cook of my Mother”. I’m assuming his Mother was a great cook. The wine smells like a kitchen I would linger in, with aromas of sweet citrus and ripe cherries. The wine is juicy with bright acidity and a clean finish. I’m dreaming of fried beets with aioli. It would rock some ratatouille too. $14.99

The Groibois family used to grow apples, until the common market reduced the prices to below survival rates (except for semi-industrial orchards). This meant the family needed to return to family vineyards. Before embarking on this challenge, Nicolas Grosbois sent out to learn how wine was made all over the world. Fro 10 years he learned how to make wines in Chile, Australia, New Zealand and Oregon. He learned that “Each wine resembles the place it comes from and the man who made it!” He returned to his family vineyards in 2005 and started to work the soil, stop all chemical treatments and aimed for low yields. His resulting wines are expressive, round, with silky tannins and fresh fruit flavors. Not only does Nicolas Grosbois make a striking Rose, but he also produces three Cabernet Franc Cuvees, bottled from different parcels from different terroir.

The 2008 Domaine Grosbois, “Gabare” Chinon, is lacking one thing. That typical green vegetable smell a lot of Loire Cabernet Franc’s have. Instead the 2008 “Gabare” is dark purple with pencil shavings, earthy mineral and black fruit aromas. The palate picks up licorice, plum, and soft minerality. The tannins are medium bodied and dry. The texture lingered for some time. $20.99

The final wine in the tasting was my favorite. The 2008 Henry Marionnet, “Premiere Vendange," Touraine Rouge. This red wine, from an area mostly known for its white wines, is vibrant and juicy. It is made from ungrafted Gamay grapes, which many wine buffs know is a rarity. This red is also produced and bottled without sulfites. And they do something crazy… they print in on the label. The European Union does not have a labeling system for wines without added sulfites, so most wines from Europe that don’t have sulfites have to still be labeled as if they do. But, Henry (the Genius) Marionnet decided to explain what he does on the label. Perfect, now I don’t have to keep explaining it. This wine is simply beautiful: seamless, medium weight, with juicy fruit notes. Dried strawberries and ripe cherries with soft spice thoughout. This was the wine I choose to sip while finishing my notes. It touched my tongue and tickled my tummy with yummy goodness. $20.99

As I left with a smile on my face and Gamay on my tongue, I stopped for a cup of coffee. I ordered a regular coffee and 2 pistachio meringues. I usually have to add a lot of milk and sugar to my coffee. I hate bitter coffee, I prefer flavorful and rich. Today, my coffee was perfect; I only added a touch of raw sugar and a few drops of milk. Perfection! One Eye Café has some amazing coffee. Oh, and the Pistachio Meringues made me drool.

Cheers!

We will be tasting these wines on Friday, August 13th from 4pm to 9:30pm.